January 2023

Often, especially in the winter, I crave food from my youth, especially New York Jewish deli cuisine. I long for whitefish salad, beef tongue, chopped liver, pickled green tomatoes, and knishes (which are baked or fried dough stuffed with fillings like mashed potatoes). In Portland where I live, I’ve been unable to find truly authentic New York deli food. Chopped liver here tastes like French paté. The pickled green tomatoes are bland. Terribly.

Over the holidays, my very thoughtful husband ordered from Katz’s Delicatessen and Yonah Schimmel Knishes. Both are Lower Eastside New York institutions that have been around for over a hundred years, and they deliver nationwide. My home was filled with the scent of deli mustard, pickle spices, and warm potatoes, wrapping me in a blanket of nostalgia.